Fashion has fallen in love with the dark side for FW20, as designers give feminine fabrics and motifs a sinister twist. It’s romantic but not as you know it — soft, gentle touches take on a maximalist, rebellious edge highlighting a cinematic juxtaposition of light and dark.

Typical romantic silhouettes have been reimagined in unexpected fabrics, glamourous gowns get a gothic makeover and florals take on a melancholy mood. Androgynous sharp lines and sculptural armour-like shoulders replace relaxed tailoring, showcasing a powerful stance on the recent unexpected times. Fashion houses had no way of knowing what was coming, but the FW20 trends reflect the post-apocalyptic journey we have all been through these past few months. Designers seemed to concern themselves with what it means to dress and how we feel in those clothes more than ever this season. We take a look at the ever-changing luxury landscape of fashion trends, highlighting the rebellious attitude this season’s fashion scene has to offer through maximalist over-the-top gowns, dramatic black, angry red and a plentiful of plaid.

BACK TO BLACK

For Fall/Winter this year we go back to black. Valentino, Balenciaga, Off-White and Dolce & Gabbana all opened their shows with strong black silhouettes, championing tonal noir throughout their collections. The use of soft feminine fabrics and romantic notions of nature keep dark tones from looking too gaudy, lending a more romantic approach and the ideal elegant dress code for day-to-day women.

Playing on the gothic punk-rock trend, traditional checks were seen all over the catwalks. From bright blue on woollen dresses at Dries Van Noten to loud, passionate red on sharp Saint Laurent blazers and head-to-toe at Burberry in their classic check print. Never one to go out of style fast, plaid will always find a place in a fashion girl’s wardrobe.

This season saw a grown-up take on last year’s glitter trend. While we are still seeing some pieces scattered with sequins, for autumn, it’s more about metallic jewel tones in unexpected fabrics — coloured leather has been upgraded with matte beading and accented sleeve detailing, whereas Balmain elevated knits in emerald, sapphire and ruby appliqué. Textured fabrics in beautiful amethyst and citrine were found at Zimmermann and Miu Miu, highlighting the showstopping grandeur of the season.

Angry red also had a place in the FW20 collections — perfectly letting out our loud restrained energy from the past few months. Whether in lace at Bottega Veneta, ruffles at Alexander McQueen or sequins at Dolce & Gabbana, the colour packed a punch from city to city. Valentino slipped its characteristic red into its otherwise toned-down collection, whereas SAINT LAURENT said it loud in bright red vinyl. If head-to-toe isn’t for you, switch out your usual black accessories for a flaming colour palette this season.

Florals for winter come from the deep dark depths of the forest, bringing a darker melancholy mood to usual bright spring blooms, in big dramatic shapes at Dries Van Noten and layered with unexpected corsets at Dolce & Gabbana. Florals are bigger and bolder than ever before but not as you know them, think poison ivy and murky heady roses as opposed to pretty pink florals, taking a stance against climate change and the dynamic fashion landscape.